This disc harrow came up for sale at a local auction, after close inspection I decided I could probably give it a bit of TLC and bring it back to its original condition. The bidding was fast and hectic, but the harrow would come home with me.

The two lower pins on the harrow had been changed to category 2 and the top link connection had two metal bars welded up each side of the original blocking out the category I hole and a new hole bored to take a category 2 pin. All this meant I had to change the linkage on my MFl35 to accommodate these differences. I changed the balls in the lower arms to category 2 and one end of the top link to category 2, this done the harrow hooked on nicely.

First task was to power hose all the green moss off. The harrow had come with an unsightly metal box welded to the top (this had probably been used to hold stones to add weight) I had to cut this away and angle grind all the welds smooth.

I then removed the four rails carrying the scraper blades and then dismantled the blades.

How the harrow looked before restoration began.

Two bearing houses, one showing the oak bearing inside.

To make cleaning easier all four gangs of discs were removed from the front and back frames along with their bearing housings and associated rails. The eight bearing housings were split to check their oak bearings, these were in excellent condition apart from two of the grease channels being blocked with dried up grease. I remedied this by removing all grease nipples and running a steel bit through the channels to help the grease to run through to the main shaft.

I then proceeded to split the front and back frames for easier handling. All parts had a clean with a wire brush and a flap disc on a  the mini grinder. After this the parts were ready for spraying, with one coat of red oxide, two coats of primer and three coats of grey  applied. Everything left to harden and cure.

Now the fun side of things putting everything back together.

Starting with the front and back frames. The four gangs of discs with their rails and bearing housings. Four scraper rails and all twenty scrapers mounted onto their rails with new coach nuts and bolts. The scrapers had to be all adjusted to their own individual disc.

I had to make a new handle to operate the gang settings. Replace the lower pins from category 2 to category 1 and adjust the top link to take a category 1 pin.

The original gang setting handle and the new one Douglas made.As a standard six-foot Ferguson 722­disc harrow she looks pretty good and ready for another few years’ work.

The disc’s have been cleaned and are in the process of being painted.

All finished and ready for work.

Published in Journal No.101 Summer 2020 : Douglas Toal

As with all Ferguson equipment, the jacking system is very simple if a little hair raising if all the wheels are taken off at the same time! For those who have never used or seen how it works, there are two main parts:

1. A ‘D’ shaped piece, which is propped up against the sump leaning backwards, points to the ground.
2. The large frame, the ‘C’ cups fit over the lift arms at the pivot point and the cross tube into the eyes at the other end.

Start the engine, engage the hydraulic lift and Low and Behold, all four wheels come off the ground and the lift stops. To lower, reverse the hydraulic lever.

MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS LEVEL AND SOLID. YOU SHOULD ALSO SUPPORT THE TRACTOR WITH AXLE STANDS OR BLOCKS OF WOOD BEFORE REMOVING ALL THE WHEELS

The crossbar ends seem prone to bend or break off with use and the one in the first two photographs had both ends missing. It is quite simple to repair as the crossbar is a tube. Cut off the broken ends with a hacksaw. Get a piece of solid bar and turn on a lathe so that it is a tight fit in the tube and the remainder should be the same diameter as the outside of the tube.

Weld round the .joint and along the fillet.
Make sure the tubes are as straight as possible, particularly the thick supporting arms.
I recently picked one up at a farm sale for £1 as nobody knew what it was!

Editor’s note J23: Here is an earlier design from a 1947 sales leaflet. There is chain welded on the front    hoop and and hooked on a peg on the main frame so that the front part (hoop) that fits on the front axle will not slide away when use.
.

Close up photographs and the drawing by David Weeks.
David Weeks (Member for Cumbria) Journal Issue 23 Winter 1995/9

Image Volume 4 No.3 Winter 1991

TRACTOR JACK A- TE A7O : THE FERGUSON JACKING SYSTEM

From an un-named member who wrote in· response to the item on pages 24-25 in Newsletter No 23:I recall there were 5 different models for the TE-20, TE-A/TE-D, TE-F, FE35 and MF65.

The TE model had horseshoe hooks on the short arms, which fitted under the rear axle housings. Note: when TEF tractors were introduced, the front of the horseshoe was cut off to accommodate the battery carriers.

The TE-A to TE-F etc. were fitted to the bottom of the lift arms.

The later jacks, brought out in the TE-F era, were made up with a solid bar across the lower link attachment, to stop the problems you describe in your article.
The 35 and 65 models had longer long arms and some had Cat 2 ends.

The chain fitted to the front stand was made to stop the frame from falling away when lifting. It was modified and the chain discarded when the front jack was fitted with a bevelled plate and two ground spikes.

The top of the front stand was changed to a triangular frame, which had a screw bolt, pointed at the top, which fitted into the centre hole in the later TE-D, TE-F and 35/65 front axle cradles.

Editor. Does anyone have a photograph of the MF65 model in use?
————————————————————————————————

Might I comment on the article on the Ferguson tractor jack. I have one similar to the 1947 model and part of the FE35 model. The (strap) that you talk about is in fact a chain welded on the front hoop and hooked over a peg on the main frame so that the front part (hoop) that fits to the front axle will not slide away when in use.

I believe that the model that Mr Weeks has was the one brought out at the launch of the TEF, a new rear frame had to be made to fit under the lower link arm ball ends because of the two batteries on the rear axle. At the same time I believe the front part was modified and made with a curved bottom plate and two spikes which dug into the ground so stopping it skidding away when in lift.

When the FE35 came out they used the main frame for the rear (as TEF) but a new front frame was made, triangular in shape with an adjustable screw thread in the middle which fits into the hole under the front axle housing (adjustable for 19″ and 16″ wheels).

There was also a heavy duty version for the industrial tractors, 35 semi Ind. and the 65s. My TE jack is model IT-TE-20 #98??

The 702 jack is Part No. 630706 in a 1st issue parts book dated 15.9.59.

The 65 jack is Part No. 557762 (low clearance), and 557774 (high clearance) in Mk I and Mk II parts books 1st dated 21.8.61.
I seem to remember a rumour a few years ago that the jacks (particularly TEF) were dangerous but I think it was more of an operator problem. Provided that the jack is used on level firm ground and that the link arms are parallel and the cup ends are properly in the link arm ball ends, you should be OK. The jack can be used rear end only but in the interests of safety the front part should be used in conjunction with the rear part, even if only a front wheel is to be changed. Then you have total control of all the tractor via the hydraulics.

I hope this comment will be of interest and I believe it to be accurate as far as I can remember. I do stand to be corrected if another member comes up with more information on the subject.

A.O. Wilson: Published in Journal 24 Spring 1992

Published in Journal 24 Spring 1992