Evenin' All.
So I've gone back in time to the first tractor I ever sat on. My father had a grey Fergie when I was still in single digits and my brother and me would play on it all the time. I could only just reach the pedals but I never got to start it as my older brother never told me about 'The Switch' and I never found it. Until I bought the one currently sat in the yard. I've bought it from the girlfriends father (sadly passed) and hope to get it working both to power itself along and earn a living. The first thing I did was check the battery and it seems it's in quite good condition as it managed to turn the engine over a couple of turns. But that was it. The starter motor sounded pretty tired and I've had a look at the brushes but I think the rotor is beyond working properly. The gaps between the contacts are almost invisible so it looks like another is on the cards. The cables were perished and frayed which wouldn't have helped. A good enough reason to join up here and bore you with my ramblings about getting it going and stopping some of the leaks. But at least there's fluids in it even though they'll be making bids for freedom as soon as it runs.
Further down the road is getting it road legal and showing a mate who is properly into his tractors. It's in competition though as I have several other projects on the go so it won't be happening quickly.
New (to me) Fergie
Re: New (to me) Fergie
Well, it runs!! I got the reconditioned starter motor back a while ago but haven't had time to fit it due to hay making. Today I made an effort and got my hands dirty on it. The wiring was a bit of a gamble as most of them are red, but it wasn't hard to follow what went where. I charged the battery up and gave it a go. I then discovered that the battery is not up to the task so used jump leads and with a bit of tinkering it went! I was a bit surprised it went so well. Sounded very smooth and no leaks, good oil pressure (the only working gauge) so decided to see if it would move under its own power. I had some fun working out what gear was where but found reverse without going through a brick wall. Took it up the drive and discovered the brakes are virtually non-existent so something else to check and rectify. Good job it doesn't go too fast...
If I can find the number plate a home, then I might take it for a spin around the village.
If I can find the number plate a home, then I might take it for a spin around the village.
Re: New (to me) Fergie
Hi, if you don't have the v5 or new keeper slip, but do have the reg no. and serial no, get a V62 form from the post office and send it to the DVLA with a £25 fee and that should get the ball rolling for a V5c, just be prepared it could take a while! The last one I did took four months.
Good to hear it goes, you don't say if it's petrol or diesel.
The brakes are much the same as a drum brake on a car only slightly larger.
When you have it running, put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. Upwards of 13v suggests the charging system is good. The battery could be suspect but do a thorough check of all the heavy connections - it may not change anything but it won't hurt.
Good to hear it goes, you don't say if it's petrol or diesel.
The brakes are much the same as a drum brake on a car only slightly larger.
When you have it running, put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. Upwards of 13v suggests the charging system is good. The battery could be suspect but do a thorough check of all the heavy connections - it may not change anything but it won't hurt.
What could possibly go wrong?
Re: New (to me) Fergie
Thanks for the advice. It really helped. The charging system is good and now it starts well with a new battery. The original one wasn't up to it but it's now on my fuel tank pump.
The engine is diesel and it has a working glow plug in the air intake system but doesn't need it currently.
I've discovered that the hydraulics work but only when the PTO is engaged! Not sure whether is meant to be like that but there is a bit of creep when it's not engaged so looking at getting a reconditioning kit for the pump. I haven't done one before but 'how hard can it be?'
The brakes were badly adjusted and now work better but one side has oil or grease residue in the drum so that will be getting a new oil seal for starters. There's still plenty of meat on the pads.
I also splashed out on a new exhaust as the old one was covered in thin sheet aluminium and pipe clamps, with some sort of sealant which looks awful, where David had tried to stop it leaking.
I've put the table saw on it so is going to be earning its keep providing wood for those cooler nights which aren't far away.
Update to follow.
The engine is diesel and it has a working glow plug in the air intake system but doesn't need it currently.
I've discovered that the hydraulics work but only when the PTO is engaged! Not sure whether is meant to be like that but there is a bit of creep when it's not engaged so looking at getting a reconditioning kit for the pump. I haven't done one before but 'how hard can it be?'
The brakes were badly adjusted and now work better but one side has oil or grease residue in the drum so that will be getting a new oil seal for starters. There's still plenty of meat on the pads.
I also splashed out on a new exhaust as the old one was covered in thin sheet aluminium and pipe clamps, with some sort of sealant which looks awful, where David had tried to stop it leaking.
I've put the table saw on it so is going to be earning its keep providing wood for those cooler nights which aren't far away.
Update to follow.
Re: New (to me) Fergie
The hydraulics on a grey are 'non live'. So, you have a single plate clutch as you would in a car. Dip the clutch and all power throughput ceases. The hydraulic pump sits on the base plate in the bottom of the rear transmission casing, It's driven by the pto shaft which passes through it on it's way to the splined stub shaft. The pto must be in gear to turn the pump. Dip the clutch and the pto shaft will stop and so will the pump.
The pressured oil from the pump runs through a gallery in the base plate then up through a pipe fitting in the trans case and on into the top cover. The creep leak could be in the top cover ie. piston rings/seals, a weeping gasket between the top cover and trans case, same between the base plate and trans case, or a worn valve in the pump.
To drop the pump - pto shaft out, side covers off, disconnect valve linkage, then base plate and pump out the bottom.
The pressured oil from the pump runs through a gallery in the base plate then up through a pipe fitting in the trans case and on into the top cover. The creep leak could be in the top cover ie. piston rings/seals, a weeping gasket between the top cover and trans case, same between the base plate and trans case, or a worn valve in the pump.
To drop the pump - pto shaft out, side covers off, disconnect valve linkage, then base plate and pump out the bottom.
What could possibly go wrong?
Re: New (to me) Fergie
Thanks Hair Bear,
I'm tempted to lift the top cover first and see what I can get to and recondition before delving more into its guts. I got a V5 through here and mounted the number plate on a bracket behind the seat. I've just got to get my brother to put it on the farm insurance before giving it a blast through the village.
I've already found one oil leak from the oil drain plug so will put a new seal on it when I do an oil and filter change.
I'm tempted to lift the top cover first and see what I can get to and recondition before delving more into its guts. I got a V5 through here and mounted the number plate on a bracket behind the seat. I've just got to get my brother to put it on the farm insurance before giving it a blast through the village.
I've already found one oil leak from the oil drain plug so will put a new seal on it when I do an oil and filter change.
Re: New (to me) Fergie
The linkage between the control quadrant on the top cover and the valve in the pump effectively connect the top and bottom together. To lift the top cover you will still need to take off the side plates to access disconnecting the pump valve from the linkage and I'm fairly sure (it was a long time ago!) the pto shaft will have to come out too.
You might want to make the brakes a bit less 'non existent' before going for a blast!
You might want to make the brakes a bit less 'non existent' before going for a blast!
What could possibly go wrong?
Re: New (to me) Fergie
I'll have a look inside over the winter but I've got something with the brake pedals. I don't really want to go hooning around until I've got the seal installed in the axle. It arrived today but we've had some other issues with tools so had to spark up the gas axe to warm and bend some metal straight.
Re: New (to me) Fergie
So I got the brakes sorted. The first issue was the leaky seal but it turns out that the last person to assemble the half shaft did so without any seals what so ever! I was in a bit of a hurry so made up some from an old Coco pops box and Hylomar. I know it's not the right sort of material but I was running out of time. If it needs doing again I'll get the right stuff first.
The brakes were just a bit seized and needed cleaning and copperslip on the metal/metal bits. I managed to get the right grease into one of the bushes with a grease gun but the other was a bit different as the bearing had rotated. Again I'll sort it if/when it has to come out. The adjusters were just a wire brush and copperslip away from working properly but the springs on the outside of the drums were toast so got replaced. I used break cleaner on the inside of the drums and the shoes that were contaminated with grease. I've been informed that it should be ok unless they get really hot but as the tractor won't be hauling a 3 ton trailer down any hills I'm not too worried. They stop it quite well now considering they're unassisted drums so I'm off up the village for a jolly.
The brakes were just a bit seized and needed cleaning and copperslip on the metal/metal bits. I managed to get the right grease into one of the bushes with a grease gun but the other was a bit different as the bearing had rotated. Again I'll sort it if/when it has to come out. The adjusters were just a wire brush and copperslip away from working properly but the springs on the outside of the drums were toast so got replaced. I used break cleaner on the inside of the drums and the shoes that were contaminated with grease. I've been informed that it should be ok unless they get really hot but as the tractor won't be hauling a 3 ton trailer down any hills I'm not too worried. They stop it quite well now considering they're unassisted drums so I'm off up the village for a jolly.